Why does barbecue taste so good?

Cookouts are a staple of summer, and with good reason. Smoky, charred barbecue has a distinct and irresistible flavor. Why? As Nolin explains, it all comes down to chemistry.

Why does smoky, charred barbecue have such an irresistible flavor?

Dr. Nolin: It all comes down to chemistry. When meat hits the heat of a grill or smoker, it undergoes the Maillard reaction — a chemical reaction between amino acids and sugars that creates hundreds of new flavor compounds. Add smoke, and you're layering in molecules from lignin, a compound in wood, that breaks down into flavorful phenols and syringol, which give barbecue that distinctive, mouthwatering aroma. 

What’s happening chemically when meat is “charred”? Isn’t that just burning?

Yes and no. A light char enhances flavor because it creates more Maillard reaction products. But go too far, and you’re into pyrolysis — decomposition by heat — which can create bitter or even harmful compounds. That’s why the best pitmasters walk a fine line between browning and burning.

Why are certain woods—like hickory or mesquite—preferred for smoking?

Different woods contain different ratios of cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin. Hickory, for example, has a lignin composition that breaks down into smoky, slightly sweet compounds. Mesquite produces a much stronger, more intense smoke due to its high lignin content. Chemically, the type of wood is like a spice — it shapes the molecular flavor profile of the meat.

What’s the science behind “burnt ends”—and why are they so popular?

Burnt ends are a perfect storm of texture and chemistry. They have a high surface area, which means more Maillard reaction and more smoke absorption. Their complex flavor comes from concentrated compounds created over long cook times — literally flavor packed into every crispy, chewy bite. 

Is there a science-backed way to enhance barbecue flavor at home?

Absolutely. Use a dry rub with sugar to encourage browning. Cook low and slow to give chemical reactions time to build complex flavors. And don’t underestimate the power of resting the meat — that lets those flavorful juices redistribute evenly. Chemistry is at play from start to finish.

How can understanding food chemistry make us better cooks?

When you know what’s happening at the molecular level, you can troubleshoot, tweak, and elevate your cooking. It’s not just about recipes — it’s about reactions. Whether it’s a grill or a stovetop, chemistry is your secret ingredient.